Permanent Makeup

Permanent Makeup Procedure: How to Prepare, Step by Step, and Does It Hurt?

Habiba Med, permanent makeup trainerHabiba MedPublished on 6 min read

Your appointment is coming up? Here's how to prepare for a beautiful result, how the permanent makeup procedure works step by step, what you'll feel, and what changes depending on the area: brows, lips or freckles.

Key takeaways

  • Prep matters: no retinol, acids or tanning on the area before the session.
  • The day before: avoid alcohol, caffeine, aspirin and ibuprofen.
  • The appointment often lasts 2 to 3 hours: a tattoo is never rushed.
  • It shouldn't hurt: at most, a feeling of warmth.
Face analysis and mapping: drawing the shape before tattooing
1. Face analysis, mappingFace analysis and mapping: drawing the shape before tattooing
Tattooing: colors chosen using color theory
2. TattooingTattooing: colors chosen using color theory
The perfecting touch-up: you come back a month later to refine the work
3. The perfecting touch-upThe perfecting touch-up: you come back a month later to refine the work
Whatever the service, you need to come back a month later (1.5 to 2 months for lips) to refine the work: that's the perfecting touch-up.

Before the session: the timeline

Before the session
For everyoneIn the days before: no retinol, acids, scrubs or peels on the area, no tanning or self-tanner.
The day before: no alcohol, caffeine, aspirin or ibuprofen, which thin the blood.
On the day: clean, healthy skin.
BrowsYou can come wearing makeup: if you like the shape of your usual makeup, it helps the artist see it. Acne-prone skin: treat the acne before the session.
LipsVery well-moisturized lips (petroleum jelly) in the days before, and a gentle scrub the day before. Cold sores: your preventive treatment, prescribed by your doctor. No filler in the 8 weeks before.
FrecklesClean skin, with no makeup or henna on the area, and no tan, so the right color can be chosen.

When to postpone your appointment

  • Your skin is flaring up on the area (acne, eczema, rosacea…).
  • You have an active cold sore (lips).
  • You had lip filler less than 8 weeks ago.
  • You have a sunburn or a tan on the area.
  • You're pregnant or breastfeeding.
Acne-prone skin with intense redness: the appointment is postponed
AvoidAcne-prone skin with intense redness: the appointment is postponed
Skin in a rosacea flare-up: no tattooing
AvoidSkin in a rosacea flare-up: no tattooing
An acne flare-up and a rosacea flare-up: the appointment is postponed until the skin calms down.

The permanent makeup procedure, step by step

  1. Habiba Med explaining the aftercare instructions to a client, who takes a photo of them
    1

    The consultation

    You talk about what you want. The artist asks about your health and looks at your skin.

  2. The finished lip drawing (mapping), before tattooing
    2

    The drawing

    She draws the shape with a pencil or a pen. You approve it in the mirror: nothing starts without your OK.

  3. The artist tests colors on the skin to confirm the best choice
    3

    Color

    She chooses the shade with you using color theory, sometimes by testing it on the skin.

  4. Numbing gel applied under plastic wrap before the session
    4

    Comfort

    Depending on the area and the artist, a numbing cream may be applied. Let her know if you're allergic to lidocaine.

  5. During the session: the lower lip is done, the upper lip not yet
    5

    Tattooing

    The pigment is applied with a light touch, layer after layer.

  6. Habiba Med explaining the aftercare instructions to a client, who takes a photo of them
    6

    Aftercare instructions

    At the end of the session, she explains how to care for the area. Feel free to take a photo of the instructions.

Does permanent makeup hurt?

Permanent makeup shouldn't hurt. At most, a feeling of warmth or a sunburn-like sensation. Real pain or bleeding isn't normal: it's a sign that the artist is going too deep.

During tattooing: no pain, no blood
During lip tattooing: no pain, no blood.

Numbing cream

Some artists use it, especially for lips. Never apply any on your own before the appointment without asking her.

Right after: what you see in the mirror

Right after, the result is darker than the final result, and the area may be a little red. That's normal and goes away quickly.

Powder brows on the day, right after the session
Right afterPowder brows on the day, right after the session
Swollen lips right after tattooing: a normal reaction that goes away within the day
Right afterSwollen lips right after tattooing: a normal reaction that goes away within the day
Slight swelling right after the session: it's normal and goes away quickly
Right afterSlight swelling right after the session: it's normal and goes away quickly
Right after the session: darker brows, slightly swollen lips that go down 70% within 2 hours, slightly swollen freckles.

What changes depending on the area

AreaThe sessionRight after
BrowsAbout 2 to 3 hours for the appointmentRedness, a little tenderness, and a result darker than the final one
LipsAbout 3 hours, numbing gel often usedSwelling that goes down 70% within 2 hours, the rest within the day, and lips that feel warm
FrecklesAbout 1.5 hours for the appointment from start to finish, including 15 to 20 minutes of tattooing for a size SSlight swelling and redness

Details by area: powder brows, lip blush, freckle tattoos.

Choosing the right time

Outside summer

Sun is off-limits for 1 month after the session: fall and winter are ideal.

Before an event

Allow at least 2 to 3 months before a wedding: healing, touch-up, final result.

Before a vacation

No pool, ocean or sun right after: move your appointment.

An SPF 50 stick, handy to keep with you
An SPF 50 stick to keep with you all year round.

Protect yourself from the sun all year round

Whatever the time of year, you always need to protect yourself from the sun: for your skin, but also to maintain the work.

Planning for the days after

For about ten days: no water on the area (depending on the area), no intense workouts, no sauna or pool, and no touching the scabs. It's all in permanent makeup aftercare and the PMU healing process.

Frequently asked questions

Yes: the artist removes it. It even helps her see the shape you like.

Often 2 to 3 hours for brows or lips, including the consultation, drawing and color.

No, it shouldn't hurt: at most, a feeling of warmth. Real pain or bleeding isn't normal.

It's best to avoid caffeine the day before and on the day itself: it thins the blood.

No aspirin or ibuprofen the day before. Ask your artist.

Any time but summer, because sun is off-limits for 1 month after the session.

No. For lips, about 70% goes down within 2 hours, the rest within the day (up to 48 hours with a lot of hyaluronic acid).

Habiba Med, permanent makeup trainer

Written by

Habiba Med

Permanent makeup artist since 2019 and trainer, I share what I see every day in my studio to help you make the right choices.