Permanent Makeup

Permanent Makeup on Difficult Skin: Oily Skin and Mature Skin

Habiba Med, permanent makeup trainerHabiba MedPublished on 6 min read

Your skin is oily and you're worried the pigment will blur? Or you're wondering if you're too old for permanent makeup? Difficult skin doesn't mean impossible. Here's what changes for the pigment, the technique and the healing.

Key takeaways

  • No age limit: what matters is your health and any treatments you're on.
  • Mature skin: it takes pigment very well and holds it for a very long time.
  • Oily skin: the pigment blurs a little and fades faster. For brows, the powder effect, never hair strokes.
  • Acne-prone skin: the acne is treated before the session.
The challenges

Mature skin

Results last very well: the skin takes pigment very well. So the artist has to adapt her technique to keep the result natural, because color shifts happen very easily on this skin type.

Oily skin

A lot of the result fades during healing. Expect a touch-up, sometimes even two, and know that it's normal. The oilier the skin, the shorter the result lasts.

Client with mature skin, healed powder brows
HealedClient with mature skin, healed powder brows
Healed mature lips, cherry red shade
Mature lipsHealed mature lips, cherry red shade
Healed freckle tattoo on oily skin
Oily skinHealed freckle tattoo on oily skin
Healed powder brows on mature skin, healed mature lips in cherry red, healed freckles on oily skin.

Every skin heals differently

Your skin has a big influence on the result. A good artist looks at your skin before choosing the technique, the color and how to work.

Your skinWhat you see once healedTouch-up
💧 OilyThe pigment holds less well: a blurrier, softer result that fades fasterNeeded, more often
⚖️ NormalEven healing, very good resultsNot always
🌵 DryThe pigment takes easily: you have to keep it lightRarely
🌷 MatureIt takes pigment very well and holds it for a very long timeOften optional

Oily skin: what happens to the pigment

Sebum makes the pigment blur a little and fade faster. Enlarged pores make fine strokes hard to keep crisp.

Oily skin with enlarged pores around the brows
Oily skin with enlarged pores, around the brows.

Which technique to choose

Brows

Powder brows (the powder effect), never hair strokes: fine strokes blur and turn fuzzy on oily skin.

Freckles

Actually a plus: the freckles blur a little and soften, so the result is almost always natural.

Old microblading whose strokes have blurred and spread over time
That's why microblading isn't recommended on oily skin: over time, the strokes disappear, blur and spread.
Very oily skin, right after pigmentation
On very oily skin, right after a freckle tattoo session.

On very oily skin, we tend to put in a little more pigment for freckles: we know the skin will push a lot of it out, and the result will still be natural.

Client with mature, combination-to-oily skin, before powder brows
BeforeClient with mature, combination-to-oily skin, before powder brows
Client with mature, combination-to-oily skin, right after powder brows
Right afterClient with mature, combination-to-oily skin, right after powder brows
Client with mature, combination-to-oily skin, healed powder brows
HealedClient with mature, combination-to-oily skin, healed powder brows
Mature, combination-to-oily skin: before, right after, then healed powder brows.

There's no sebum on the lips

Lips are an exception. Having oily skin doesn't mean your lip blush won't last as long: there's no sebum on the lips.

The dermatological explanation

The red part of the lips (the vermilion) has no sebaceous glands and no sweat glands. That's actually why lips dry out so fast and need moisturizing. Its skin is also very thin, with a reduced protective layer. Only the tiny Fordyce spots, when there are any, are isolated sebaceous glands. The result: the sebum from oily skin never reaches the pigment in the lips.

Lip blush with full lip color, right after the procedure
Lip blush with full lip color (full lips), right after the procedure: oily skin makes no difference to how long it lasts on the lips.

Permanent makeup for older women: am I too old?

No, there's no age limit. You just need to check for illnesses and treatments that could be a contraindication (check whether permanent makeup is safe for you). Mature skin takes pigment very well and holds it for a very long time: often, no touch-up is needed.

Client over 80 with white, almost nonexistent brows, before powder brows
BeforeClient over 80 with white, almost nonexistent brows, before powder brows
Client over 80 after powder brows
AfterClient over 80 after powder brows
Mature client with gray-white hair, before powder brows
BeforeMature client with gray-white hair, before powder brows
Mature client with gray-white hair, powder brows healed 2 months later
HealedMature client with gray-white hair, powder brows healed 2 months later
A client over 80, before and after; a client with gray-white hair, before and then healed 2 months later.

What changes during the session and healing

  • The skin is thinner and less firm: the artist stretches it well and works with a light hand.
  • Mature skin tends to cool down the pigment: the color is warmed up to compensate.
  • Healing doesn't take longer.

Which technique for a natural result

Brows

Both techniques are possible. The powder effect brings presence back to sparse or white brows.

Lips

Few wrinkles: ombré lips are still possible. Lots of wrinkles: full lip color works better.

Mature lips with few wrinkles: ombré lips are still possible
Mature, few wrinklesMature lips with few wrinkles: ombré lips are still possible
Mature, very wrinkled lips: full lip color works better, ombré lips are not recommended
Mature, very wrinkledMature, very wrinkled lips: full lip color works better, ombré lips are not recommended
Mature lips with few wrinkles (ombré possible) and very wrinkled mature lips (full lip color recommended).
Natural mature lips, before
BeforeNatural mature lips, before
Right after: gentle technique, slight swelling
Right afterRight after: gentle technique, slight swelling
Client with mature skin before powder brows
BeforeClient with mature skin before powder brows
Client with mature skin, healed powder brows
HealedClient with mature skin, healed powder brows
Mature lips before, then right after; mature skin before, then healed powder brows.

Preparing your skin and maintaining the result

  • Acne-prone skin: treat the acne before the session. We never tattoo skin during a flare-up.
  • No acids, retinol or peels on the area before, or for 1 month after.
  • Oily skin: plan on more regular touch-ups, about once a year.
  • Always protect the area from the sun with SPF.
Acne-prone skin with intense redness: the appointment is postponed
Acne-prone skin with intense redness: the appointment is postponed.

The factors add up

Age and skin type

A young client with oily skin: two factors that make the pigment fade, so the touch-up is essential. A mature client with oily skin: one factor for and one against, so the touch-up may or may not be needed. A mature client with dry skin: the pigment lasts a very long time.

The details by area: powder brows for oily skin and mature skin and healed tattoo freckles by skin type.

Frequently asked questions

No. You just need to check for illnesses and current treatments.

Yes, but it blurs a little and fades faster: plan on more regular touch-ups.

It's not recommended: fine strokes blur. The powder effect is the right technique.

Yes, very well and for a very long time: often, no touch-up is needed.

The acne is treated first: we never tattoo skin during a flare-up.

Yes: full lip color works best on very wrinkled lips.

Habiba Med, permanent makeup trainer

Written by

Habiba Med

Permanent makeup artist since 2019 and trainer, I share what I see every day in my studio to help you make the right choices.